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SEA GEM LOG: Patmos- The island of the reveletion July 13- 16, 2000

Patmos is called the Mount Sinai of Greece, for there St. John heard the voice of God directing him to write the last book of the New Testament, the book of Revelations.  In 1995 a major celebration was held on the island to commemorate the 1900 years since the book was written.

 We visited the Monastery of St. John as well as the actual cave where he received the inspiration for writing the book which continues to confound both religious scholar and layman.  My description of Patmos is minimal yet I hope to convey that visiting here was inspirational.  The physical beauty of the place with the panoramic view from the monastery, the cave and chapels so dutifully kept by the monks, and the impressive museum are all things which make Patmos an unforgettable experience.

 

 Around the year 95 AD, Christ's disciple, John the Divine, St. John or John the Evangelist, was banished to the island of Patmos by the Emperor Domitian.  John converted the island to Christianity and was beloved by the citizens.  As the world converted to Christianity John was released from Patmos but the destiny of the island as a shrine had been determined.  In the 1088 St. Christodoulos began the Monastery of St. John, which stands today in fortress splendor.  It is the destination for many pilgrims and the monks who manage the monastery  preserve the feeling of reverence and quiet rather than the atmosphere of a tourist destination.

 Our first visit up to the monastery was by scooter.  It was closed but a friendly shopkeeper told us we should really come by tour.  We went back down to the town of Skala and got the information and planned for the next morning.  Going by scooter does give you the opportunity to take photos whenever you see a likely spot, and here on Patmos there are photo OP's around every bend.  We loved being stopped by the goat herd being taken up the road with the smiling shepherd leading them.

 The spectacular views along the road  invite a stop and --one more picture.

 

 

Our Patmos Monastery Tour was one of those events we were glad we did not miss.  Our tour guide, Vera, spoke excellent English and apparently also excellent German.  She did trade the German tourists to another guide and kept the English speaking folks.  She gave both a standard explanation and also expanded into her interpretations of the significance of the shrine.  I really wanted to talk to her further but she left us during lunch and I never had the chance.

 We have eaten many meals where a tour plants you, but never one so good as we had in Patmos.  The food was fresh, the selection good, the place charming and the entertainment fresh and authentic.  The waiters and owner of the restaurant danced for us after serving our meal and you could tell it was something they do often and with great gusto. 

 Patmos is enticing not only because of the historical significance but also because it is a charming and well maintained community.  We were docked stern to here, and except for having to set another  anchor in the middle of the night during a blow, we had no problems.  We had tour boats, big palatial yachts, and other cruisers like ourselves tied along the clean concrete quay.  Little shops, restaurants or tavernas, and offices lined the harbor welcoming the day tripper's that arrive on the cruise ships and ferries.

 We followed a couple of dining recommendations and ate at an Indonesian restaurant one evening and a rather gourmet place the next, both were excellent and the background of the lighted "Disney looking rocks" up behind the restaurant with the moon coming up over the harbor is just about all a soul can absorb.

It was a little difficult to leave such an ideal location but it was time to push on so on the morning of July 16 at 09:00 we pulled away from the quay. 

 We set sail  for Kos our next stop.  The fifty miles were uneventful until we were chased down by a frantic guy in a large fast inflatable.  At first we thought it might be someone we knew from the Millennium Odyssey but as he came up we realized we did not know him and as he frantically tried to communicate with us we realized he had a problem, or did we have a problem?  He kept motioning toward shore and making motions that we needed to follow him.  We got him to tie his dingy to our stern, which he did in a fashion that made both of us doubt his seamanship and his experience.  The language barrier was big, partly due to the fact that he was so upset and excited. 

 We decided to go back to where he indicated and Charlie and I decided it was probably some type of boat trouble.  We did decide that I should go below and call Hellas Radio and let them know our position and that we were going to the aid of a boat in distress.  I got Hellas Radio, gave our position and found that the difficulty was just as severe there; no Greek from me and no English from them.  Ah well--we were on our way, to we knew not what. 

 Around the point of the island we saw the plight of the frantic fellows boat.  It was almost ashore being pounded by what was fortunately an almost calm surf. I'm sure that when your boat is making contact with rocks on every wave it does get to you.  Through sign language we told him we would come in as close as possible and he should bring a line from his boat to ours.  There were three souls aboard, plus one dog.  The dog barked.  There was Frantic Friend,  Old Man and  Fat Guy.

 Frantic sped to his boat, tied his dingy and went to get the line started.  To reboard his dingy he DIVED into the water.  This made us especially question his judgment  remembering his boat is aground on rocks.  He starts the dingy and starts out to us with the line in hand.  As he gets close he cannot pull the line fast enough so he dives out of his dingy and starts swimming out toward Sea Gem.  He dingy is now unmanned and still running, fortunately as least he had put it in neutral.  It is rare to be able to catch an inflatable in a wind and we were incredulous that we were in a situation with The Three Stooges in action.  I threw him a line, took his and told him by signal to go get his dingy.  He did and we were now getting in position to pull them off the rocks. 

 Frantic got back aboard and started bringing in the anchor, which apparently got hung up, so the next thing we know he has cut his anchor line.  I think they were afraid we would go off and leave them, which, of course, we would not do. The tow line was cleated to our stern and we eased Sea Gem forward and they pulled off smooth as silk. When we got them out into deeper water both Frantic and Fat Guy dived into the water so we stpped.  Now just Old Man and Dog are aboard and we were watching to see what would happen next.  They were checking the hull and the next thing we know Frantic is back in the dingy with Old Man speeding out to us.  His dingy driving should be restricted to five horse power or less but he had a big Merc on the stern of his.  He collides into our side (thankfully an inflatable) and lo and behold Old Man can speak English.  He asks if we can tow them to a marina as their engines will not work and they cannot stay where they are for now they have no anchor and would be right back on the rocks.  We tell them, "Of course we will tow them.  They need to change the tow line from the stern to the bow of their boat".  They rush around and keep saying, "One minute."  We were not in least impatient and soon they were ready.

 The tow was easy, the sea calm, the light still good and we did not have far to go.  When we approached the town.  I got out the binoculars and saw there was a quay with some boats tied up also when we got closer we determined there was a harbor also.  We then noticed that the tow line would go slack at times so we knew they had an engine running.  We slowed and circled around to talk again.  We told them where we were going to anchor and that we could loan them an anchor for the night if they did not want to go into the dock.  They said they only had one engine but we knew that one would normally be able to safely go into the port with one engine, and we gave them back their line and bade them good-bye.  I think they wanted to stay with us, rafted up, but after watching their antics they were capable of grounding  their boat but probably also damaging Sea Gem in a rafting maneuver.  A small adventure, you never know what is around the corner in life.

We are now anchored off Ormos (Bay) Kamaras, on the island of Kos.  This is an action center for water sports but that is a whole new subject.  Until later from the Sea Gem floating in the clear blue Aegean . . .