experience was a study in contrasts. From the ambiance of a five star hotel to seeing fifty kilos of honey in a sticky burlap bag
being brought to the market by donkey. The bag holding the honey was almost as large as the donkey, but much stickier. We walked through the hot dusty market
surrounded by eager children anxious to do anything to gather a little money or have their picture taken. Rather than give money, which encourages begging, we buy
from vendors where ever possible. We end up with some interesting things. In Singapore Charlie purchased a small Fujji Polaroid type camera that takes business card
sized pictures. We take pictures and hand them out as we travel. So many people want one. We have almost been mobbed in some places because people are so anxious to have their
picture made. They also like to see the image on the digital but that does not replace being able to leave a small gift, of their own likeness. So many of the normally smiling faces
become very solemn when they know they are being photographed. I know these little pictures may become very important. We have taken photos of babies, and known that it
may be the only photo ever made of that child, in a world where many children do not survive the hazardous journey to adulthood.
We traveled up the mountain through a fragrant grove of eucalyptus to get an overview of the city.
All the way up we passed women and children carrying huge bundles of sticks into the city
to sell as fuel. The country has been deforested by man and denuded of grass by the herds of goats, sheep and cattle. They must have a growing season, for we passed wagon loads of
hay, and saw haystacks in some of the villages. There is so little in this barren land. It is hard to imagine flowers blooming and grass growing, but as in most arid regions the secret is
water. These people have so little water. You see small children carrying jugs of water from muddy streams to supply their homes.
Along
the road there is no vehicular traffic, just hordes of people walking.
Some lead donkeys that are heavily burdened. There are a few
carts for hauling, but no one rides except the driver. The
population walks, and that includes the very young, the aged, and
the infirm. Tourists ride, partially insulated from the dust
of the road, the flies, and the fatigue, that must be ever present
in this harshest of environments.
The feeling of despair is so overwhelming that tears spring
to eyes unaccustomed to this reality. Forever after, my measurement of deprivation will be influenced by the scenes that are permanently branded into my brain. Many of the people
are handsome by any standard. Without exception all were friendly toward us.
The population is uniformly thin. I noticed that when tourists are illustrated in guide books
they are portrayed as fat. What thoughts must go through the minds of these people who merely subsist? How can we justify any complaint when there is a whole world out there that
does not have enough water to drink?
March
7, we leave the hotel at 0600 for a flight to Bahar Dar. Flying
over Ethiopia you see the rugged landscape threaded with small rivers
running through almost dry river beds. This is the dry season.
Landing in Bahar Dar was unusual for all of our window shades were
drawn so that we could not see something below us. I am sure
it was a military installation but why the secrecy? Evidence
is apparent that there are floods during the rainy season.
It seems an area of extremes, no water or too much water.
Ethiopia is the birthplace of the mighty Nile. We visit Blue
Nile Falls and walk to a viewing area. The "short walks"
described by a guide are often long hikes. Along the way we
purchased little baskets, a newly forged cross, done by a blacksmith
and some cloth, hand woven by a woman along the path. We saw
small monkeys scampering along the river bank, stepped aside to
let laden donkeys pass on the narrow path, and made our way through
the small crowd of children who had accompanied us. Many have
their names and addresses written on sheets of paper to give to
tourists who, they hope, will remember them with letters or gifts
when they return home. The children are proud of their English
and want to converse with us.
Our
next excursion was (of all things) a boat trip on Lake Tanna to
the Zeghie Peninsula. This area is known for its 14th Century,
round grass roofed churches constructed of dung and straw.
The paintings in the church are exquisite but the structure is ill
kept. We were met at the dock by the populace and had to almost
fight our way up the path through people that wanted to sell us
things. On the way back, Charlie got out in front of the crowd
and leapt down the rocky path to the dock. This caused our
guide to laugh and comment, "George Washington is running away and
leaving the first lady." Assafa thought it was a great compliment
to Charlie to tell him he looked like George Washington. I'm
not sure about that. When the local boys are trying to help
you on the scree covered steep paths, they sometimes are so much
in your way they can cause you to fall. I did have some nice
young men help me and if I slid or slipped they referred to me as
"mother." They are very respectful and we always had more
help than we needed or wanted. They would not let us take
our shoes off or put them on by ourselves. Thank goodness
for Teva's and Velcro. Shoes must be removed before entering
any church. How did we loose that custom? It seems to
make a lot of sense. Think how much cleaner our buildings would
be if we left our shoes outside.
Our night in Bahar Dar was spent at the Tanna Hotel located on the shore of Lake Tanna.
While on our boat trip we saw one of the reed boats hauling goods across the huge lake. Other reed boats we saw in the museum. This kaleidoscope of images makes the ancient
Bible stories come alive, for Ethiopia is one of the cradles of Christianity, and very possibly the repository of the Ark of the Covenant. We were told on several occasions to read THE
SIGN AND THE SEAL by Graham Hancock. It is an excellent account of the very important religious history of Ethiopia. He chronicles the very areas we visited and the information
adds depth and meaning to what we saw.
The Tanna Hotel had water all of the time, for washing and flushing. Hot water was
available once a day. After all day in the dust it is a luxury to take a shower and one we take for granted. Lunch at the hotel prompted Victor to look for an alternative and for the evening
meal Charlie, Thomas, Jeanette and I accompanied Victor, Helen and Assefa to an Ethiopian restaurant for a "truly Ethiopian meal." It was enjoyable and not our only meal eaten with the
unique Ethiopian bread and only courage and the fingers of the right hand. Harry, Carla, Brad and Rosie opted out for that adventure and stayed with the planned program.
From
Bahar Dar we flew to Lalibela. Again during takeoff our window
shades were closed tightly. We would not have been curious
if not for all the secrecy. The trip to Lalibela was to view
eleven rock hewn churches. Viewing churches seems a major
pastime in the tour world so we inhaled deeply and prepared ourselves
for a ho-hum day. What we found instead was truly one of the
wonders of the world. That phrase is so overworked but when
you encounter the grandeur of these ancient structures it takes
your breath. These churches were built at the end of
the twelfth and beginning of the thirteenth centuries by King Lalibela
of the Zaghwe dynasty and are now called the churches of Lalibela.
There are many references to particular churches in THE SIGN AND
THE SEAL. Each church is different and each hewn from solid
rock, descending into the ground, rather than soaring above it.
These churches are engineering and design miracles of any time,
but especially of the ancient times in which they were built.
The inside of each church was hewn out of solid granite-like rock
with solid hewn-in-place towering columns, windows, doors and Christian
symbols--NO BLOCKS TO COVER MISTAKES. The churches were built
below ground to better camouflage them from the hordes of non-Christians
who sought to destroy any vestige of the faith. Who really
built the churches? Were there Europeans who came secretly
to Ethiopia to work with the Ethiopians ? Were the churches
built with the assistance of heavenly power? Did angels
guide the hands that sculpted the rock? What kind of engineering
expertise had to be available to build such structures? Seeing
these churches was awe inspiring. They are in use today.
They are not designed to be used like our churches but the faithful
are there and worship goes forward on a daily basis. Is the
fabled
Ark of the Covenant in Ethiopia? Not only are there questions I do not have answers for, now I have questions I never dreamed before. Seeing Lalibela as a tourist is an experience
not to be forgotten. Seeing Lalibela as a human being may go a ways to making me a better one.
Our hotel was a small miracle in such a remote place. They had running water twice a day,
once in the morning for about thirty minutes and again in the evening for perhaps an hour. For the rest of the day a bucket was provided for flushing and a pitcher by the sink for
washing. The food served was good, especially the lentil soups, but I kept wanting to say, "We don't need this, can't we share it with someone else?" For entertainment in the evening
a local woman did an Ethiopian coffee ceremony for us. She started by roasting the beans, pounding them and making the coffee, complete with smoke and incense and all done over
an open fire. It was quite good and another sampling of their culture. We left Ethiopia with some coffee but we should have purchased more.
We saw huge crowds walking to pick up bags of grain at a central disbursal point. I know much of the relief effort sent to the country never is delivered. Relief in the way of grain
shipments is only a band aid for a hemorrhage. Traveling has opened our minds and hearts to many things. Every day we have so much for which to be grateful. After our brief trip to
Ethiopia there will be things to ponder for a lifetime. Until later . . .
0700 the morning of March 6th we left Sea Gem to begin our inland adventure into Ethiopia. We took Jeannette with us and
also in our party were: Victor and Helen, from Pilar G; Harry and Carla, from Die Swanne; Thomas, from Polly; and Brad and Rosie, from Foxy Lady. Our visa acquisition was done
through Bruno Pardigon, a charming young Frenchman who has established a tourist agency specializing in tours of the area and diving expeditions. Bruno has the insight to see the
possibilities of the tour business in this unique area. The opportunities are ample but more cooperation is needed from the Ethiopian government in easing restrictions on outside
development, and making traveling in the country easier. . 
Our
whole