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 We
left Marmaris April 9and checked into Kusadasi on April 12. Turkish
regulations make cruising the coast simple, for you do not have
to formally check into each town. The marina is nice here, close
to town and from here we have toured Epheses, one of the premier
archeological sites of the world. We visited the last home of the
Virgin Mary where John took her after the crucifixion. We have flown
to Istanbul to absorb as much of that magnificent city as possible
in a limited time.
 We
used Hotel Spina in Istanbul which is centrally located between
Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. The spires of both were visible
from the dining area on the top floor of our hotel.
Ataturk, supreme hero and
first President of modern Turkey, directed that the Hagia Sophia
be converted to a museum so that all visitors can marvel at the
size, beauty and  workmanship
of this structure. When it was used as a mosque all the mosaics
were covered by plaster, now many have been uncovered and restored
to their original splendor. The tiny tiles, many covered in gold,depict
Christian themes as beautifully as oil on canvas and many of the
figures are so lifelike they look as though they might step down
and start speaking. Hagia Sophia was the largest Christian Church
in the world at the time it was built, now it is still the fourth
largest and one of the great world landmarks. 
Modern Turkey, the complex
distillation of one of the greatest powers the world has ever known
cannot be easily captured or understood. The best that we can hope
to do is to view the splendors, experience the novel, and capture
a few images on film, and many in our minds. We have climbed ancient
forts, marveled at ancient mosaics and  ruins,
experienced modern transit systems and luxuriated in the old pleasures
of a Turkish bath. The people are friendly and helpful and the salesmen
without peer.
We wait in Kusadasi for
the weather to moderate. We watched the wind whip to forty knots
yesterday and that was here in the marina where we are securely
snubbed to a nice concrete quay. While we are here we will take
advantage of the layover and make plans to see more of the sights.
More ancient wonders and more delicious restaurants await us. 
The East Mediterranean
Yacht Rally started with the barbecue last evening and already we
are meeti ng
the participants, many of whom have lived on their boats in the
Mediterranean for years. The rally will be composed of people from
many countries with a common love for the sea and for travel. Weather
influences decisions of when to leave and we await a break to make
our jump to the next port. The season is still not in swing here
so nothing is crowded yet. From Sea Gem at dockside in Kusadasi,
Turkey, until later. . . .
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