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SEA GEM LOG: July 22-27, 2001- On to Gibralter

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What a difference two days makes. We left Teulada in relatively calm seas, again setting out for our destination of Gibralter. This segment of the voyage has been blessedly uneventful. The weather has been mild and the stress level is low. Charlie has gotten the little water maker working beautifully at 7-8 gallons per hour, and we are full of good reverse osmosis water.

On the
afternoon of July 22 I was napping. I kept hearing a whirring noise and in my dream state thought it was Charlie shaving with his electric razor. The noise went on and on and I finally roused myself and realized the man just doesn't take that long to shave. The repetitive noise was fishing line running off the reel. Practically the whole spool was out. I yelled, "Fish on." Charlie rallied to the call and the fight began. We cut the engine back and he set out to land what proved to be a fantastic "big-eyed tuna." Ironically I had taken the last package of frozen tuna out that morning to fix for dinner. He fought the fish for some time and we finally boated her, using some of the Ouzo, given to us in Greece, which he poured into her gills to anesthesize her quickly and humanely. It also keeps a fish from splattering blood from stem to stern. Charlie cleaned the fish and ever since we have been eating the best tuna I think I have ever tasted. How do you want your tuna today?

We continue west toward Gibralter and for the first time since June of 1999 in the South Pacific, Sea Gem is again in the Western Hemisphere. Counting down the seconds and minutes on the chart, as we log in, just reconfirms the fact that with each mile we are indeed headed home.

We have a little leeway in our timing to reach Lanzarote but we want plenty of time there to get things put away on board and insure that Sea Gem has a safe and secure resting place while we are gone. Whether she will go "up on the hard" or remain in the water is still to be decided. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.

July 25, 2001. We have decided to stop at an anchorage on the coast of Spain to get a good nights sleep and leave so that we will enter Gibralter during daylight hours. As we move toward Gibralter there is more and more traffic. We especially want to be arrive in that congested place with daylight. We will leave the anchorage early. It will be a better than twenty-four hour run from where we anchor.


The anchorage was very roily and we were more than glad to be up and away to tick off the last twenty-four hours to Gibralter. The trip was in good weather. What wind we had was enough at times to give a boost to one engine. As we approached "The Rock" the traffic was really heavy. At one time I counted fourteen ships on the radar screen with only a twelve-mile radius. During Charlie's time, which is most of the time at night, he was plowing into a thirty-knot wind head on with both engines and making little progress.


During my watch I could smell the desert, or something that smells like the desert to me. I conjured up visions of camel caravans, nomads wrapped in native dress and cities dripping intrigue and magic. Daylight brought visions of ferries, tankers and container ships. Towering four hundred and thirty meters above the water is "The Rock"which has been a navigational landmark since man first ventured forth upon the sea. As one of the Pillars of Hercules, the Rock of Gibralter used to mark the end of the civilized world in ancient times.



Before entering any new port, regulations dictate the yellow Q flag (quarantine) must be raised. Our entry into Gibralter and the clearance of customs was the easiest we have had in going around the world. We docked at a fuel dock, next to the customs office, Charlie went in to clear, I chatted with the fuel attendant. After clearance we fueled, took our garbage in and the customs agent used his influence to get us a berth at one of the three marinas. All are full due to a regatta and we are thankful to have this space so that we can get a few provisions, check our e-mail and wash the salt off the boat. If we are lucky we will be able to sell or trade our
"made for the Med." gangplank for something we can use, like a new spinnaker pole, to replace the one lost in the storm.

Closing for now so we can do a little exploration of one of the interesting ports of the world, Gibralter. From Sea Gem until later. . . .