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Releasing
the bow line from the underwater block was not as easy as planned,
so Charlie had a very early, very chilly swim to get it done. He
checked on that first, while our anchor was still in place so that
we could effect our departure from Monemvasia smoothly. Other than
that we slipped away quietly at 6:30 AM, to continue our way around
the southern capes of the Peloponnisos.
Charlie picks
our destinations by using the Greek Cruising Guides, our charts,
and checking out distances from anchorage to anchorage. He always
tries to have some alternatives in mind if the weather turns bad.
We also read ahead, to see if there are any particular places we
want to visit.
Our cruising
on June 6, was never lonely. Because of the canal being closed in
Corinth all the shipping is having to detour around the southern
tip of Greece. At times we had four or five freighters in sight,
both coming and going. We also passed a convoy of seven German warships,
headed east. At one point I was looking through the binoculars and
found one of their crew looking back at us; curiosity in both directions.
An excellent
Greek sailing guide which we have is GREECE SEA GUIDE by Nicholas
D. Elias, Volume I. It covers, in depth, a portion of the Greek
Islands plus other relevant information. His interpretation of cloud
formations over island mountain peaks is: a cigar shaped cloud portends
strong winds from he northwest ( our heading) and I snapped a couple
of photos because, in predominately clear skies the formations were
so dramatic. We had no more looked at the cloud and wondered about
the validity of his prediction than the wind started piping up,
up and up. The clouds vanished and the winds increased to twenty-five
knots building heavy uncomfortable seas very quickly. Instead of
pounding into the seas for another thirty miles we altered course
and took an alternative route to the little port of Limeni. According
to the guide book , anchorage is limited, and protection poor, but
there again Dame Fortune smiled on us. We checked out one possibility,
deemed it too risky to anchor, and went across the bay looking fo r
something more secure. There is a small breakwater and quay on the
northeast part of the bay and as we approached, looking directly
into the sun, I was on deck and several men on the quay were motioning
us to come in to the quay. There was a fairly large fishing boat
there but they moved that forward and made room for us directly
behind the fishing boat. One young man spoke English, organized
the men on the dock and took our lines. We were worried about taking
someone else's place and they dismissed our concerns and welcomed
us. The young man's English name is Peter and when Charlie asked
how long we could stay at the quay he said with a laugh, "One,
two years, as long as you want." There were tourists there
swimming off the rocks of the jetty in the crystal clear water.
One woman came over to tell us they were tourists from Rome, traveling
by camper through this part of Greece. After Peter was satisfied
that we were secure he asked us to come visit his mother's taverna
for something to drink. Boy, was that my cue. I popped the steaks
back in the freezer and changed plans to--dinner out. We couldn't
refuse the local hospitality, could we?
Dinner at
Peter's was excellent. A table outdoors, overlooking the bay, the
evening breeze bringing a slight chill to the air as we watched
the sun set over Sea Gem, snubb ed
securely to the strong concrete quay. Peter took our order in English,
I heard him take the order from the next table in Spanish, and later
asked him how many languages he speaks. Helaughed, and started naming
them off: English, German, Spanish, Italian, this of course is built
on his mother tongue of Greek. Peter seems very committed to his
parent's hotel, but with his talents and the beauty of the surroundings
I see expanded tourism in the future for this beautiful and remote
area.
We had read
about the Caves of Diros Mani, in the next town and asked Peter
if he could arrange a taxi for us for the next morning (we wondered,
if indeed, there were any cabs here). With a telephone call and
elaborate hand gestures he arranged one for us for this morning
at 8:30. 
What a day
this has been. Petros picked us up promptly at 8:30 in his clean
Mercedes sedan, and we drove over the narrow mountain roads through
two lovely villages on the way to the caves. Charlie remarked that
they have some talented stone masons, for most of the buildings
were solidly and very attractively constructed of stone. The area
seemed to be reasonably prosperous and their budding tourist industry
was mostly composed of longer staying rather than the "day
tourists" some places attract. Petros' enthusiasm
blossomedwhen he saw how impressed we were with the beauty of the
surroundings. He treated us as friends rather than customers and
it was that way for the rest of the morning.
He took us
by his friend's bakery where we purchased bread which she was baking
in a wood fired oven. Charlie spotted a pastry wh ich
we had to try and it turned out to be one ofthe most delicious cheese
pastries I have ever put in my mouth. The flaky crust was still
hot and the two cheeses inside melted as they touchedyour tongue.
Petros suggested some of the special bread, which is a dried, smoke
flavored wheat. We bought some and I thinkI may refrain from too
much as it feels like it may be a challenge to crowns. Also purchased
a r egular
loaf of a type of sour dough and some little crunchy twists. She
also sold us some fresh "local eggs." Petros also took
us to another friend's place where we purchased vegetables. I appreciate
his care for this was not a tourist trap visit, just friendly help.
We stopped by so that he could show us the entrance to his home
where you walked through a bower of flowers to approach the entrance.
It turned out that the dog I was feeding at the bakery belonged
to Petros and he took him home and shut him behind the iron gate.
We went through
the town of Diros to the entrance of the caves called Vlihada, Alepotripa
and Katafigi. Vlihada, the cave which has been developed very nicely
into a quality tourist attraction is 33,400 square meters, 5,000
meters have been explored. We descended into the cave and were ushered
into a narrow flat bottom boat for our half hour underground tour.
We have visited quite a few caves but by far this is the best we
have se en.
The cave was known since 1900 but only explored beginning in 1950.
As you are
poled or paddled through crystal water in cool silence you can understand
if the ancient people knew of this place they may indeed have thought
it to be the entrance to the underworld and the after life. The
trip winds through endless dreamlike formations of stalagmites and
stalactites in room after room of beauty to rival any man made palace.
Cool fresh water drips from the ceilings and the lights reveal hues
and shapes hard to capture in words or on film. The trip is quiet,
only the sound of the boat moving through the water and the occasional
grunt or labored breathing from our boatman pushing five of us through
the tunnels. We arrived before the crowds, but I think they pace
the boats so that each has the experience  of
quiet as well as beauty.
This part
of Greece is set apart from what we have seen in the islands. We
became so accustomed to the whitewashed buildings and smooth blue
roofs that the stone walls and tile roofs present a totally different
appearance architecturally. The olive groves, colorful fishing boats
and craggy cliffs continue but as we proceed north we know the landscape
will change. Beautiful places, beautiful people, each day brings
something new but the Caves of Diros Mani are something you experience
only if you are very lucky and happen to drop in to this part of
Greece. Until later from Sea Gem in Limeni, Greece. . . .
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