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The Eastern
Mediterranean Yacht Rally (EMYR) covered the entire coast of Turkey
ending at the eastern port of Mersin, stopping only at fine marinas
or major ports. Now we retrace our route by visiting interesting
coves and villages.
From Mersin we began our westward cruise which will ultimately take
us home to Florida.  Our
original plan was to sail to the Canary Islands by August 1, leave
Sea Gem in a marina on Lanzaroti and fly home until after Christmas
when we would sail her back across the Atlantic, through the Caribbean
and home. That would require racing past such beautiful and interesting
cruising areas that we have changed our plans. We will probably
only sail Sea Gem this one time in the Med, and although I'm anxious
to get back into the swing of things at Gray, Harris & Robinson
and the activities in Central Florida, we want to enjoy this one
time through the Mediterranean. Besides, we can fit our changed
cruising plan into my 8 months working in the office and 4 months
on the boat program. Also it assures that we will have time to meet
my partner, Malcom Kirchenbaum and his wife, Jane, in Croatia June
22nd, for a cruise of that coast. The Freedom Forum, a major philanthropic
organization of which Malcom is a Trustee is meeting in Croatia
the last of June when Malcom will be honored with a lifetime achievement
award.
The weather was benign as
we left Mersin at 2 PM. Lots to do to get away--turn in the rental
car, last minute shopping, wash off he red dust that had settled
all over Sea Gem ,
fill the water tank ( the water in practically all of Turkey is
good and drinkable), and slide out from between two boats jammed
in Med. style, miss all the other boat lines that will foul your
prop and require a dive overboard in a dirty harbor, and miss the
large metal buoys to which each of our bows were tied. Because of
the late start we headed for Narlikuyu, a small cove about 30 miles
from Mersin where we settled in for a great Saundra cooked chicken
dinner and movie.
Because the coast is more
interesting further west and the weather was so settled we opted
for a 190 mile overnight sail to bypass the large bay containing
Antalya as well as Kemer, having called at both of these ports on
EMYR. At 7 AM we entered the small beautiful anchorage of Cineviz
but found it to be too popular. With a number of gulets (traditional
wooden schooners) gracing this anchorage we sailed to a nearby,
little known, hard to find and well protected anchorage, Sazak,
and dropped anchor at 8 AM. The tall cliffs on both sides with a
beach at the head of the cove was beautiful and entirely ours. We
took a hot shower and got a major nap only to be awakened by the
sound of anchors dropping. Four gulets had joined us. These were
day tours and the people on board were enjoying their one day at
sea. We waved and welcomed them, knowing they would leave that afternoon
and we would once again have this beautiful lagoon all to ourselves.
That night Saundra cooked lamb chops, a great vegetable medley and
a carrot, apple and raisin salad. We ate on deck with a background
of beautiful instrumental music I had recorded on CD at home from
Napster ( I sure hope they get back on the air - I found some music
by artists I've been looking in music stores for years). After dinner
we watched a DVD movie, Gladiator, planned our next day sail and
hit the sack -- boy do we sleep well on the boat.
 We're
really glad we decided to leave Sea Gem in the Med another year.
We can spend more time cruising, including calling at Venice after
cruising the coast of Croatia, and it will be better for picking
up Joel and Janet Haas who will be sailing with us the beginning
of July for 2 weeks. It also gives us time to fix several things
on Sea Gem. Blue water sailing of necessity involves fixing or replacing
things that break or get out of adjustment -- there's always a price.
Being a lawyer rather than a mechanic all my life I've had, and
still have, a lot to learn. So far we've been able to keep essential
systems working ( ice maker, refrigeration, DVD and CD player--you
know--" essential."). Seriously, I meticulously service
both 66hp Yanmar engines, the 8KW Northern light generator and other
systems necessary to get us there. But things chafe and wear so
you have to stay on top of everything. Our boat is like a small
city requiring electric power generation and management, water making,
waste management, keeping sea water on the outside. and constant
equipment maintenance. But we still have plenty of time to read
, play, tour, hike, shop and enjoy new places and people.
We were awakened at 6 AM , when the boat started rocking. Sea Gem
was sideways to waves coming in the entrance to the lagoon. We didn't
anticipate the surge or we would have put out a stern anchor or
a line to shore to keep our bow to the waves. All in all though,
it wasn't a bad way to wake up, and it got us off to an early start.
Although we hated to leave this lovely
anchorage we knew there would be another equally or more beautiful
ahead.Sure enough at 3 PM we dropped anchor in Bayindir Bay about
a mile and a half from the town of Kas. We were joined by two other
sailboat and a day-tour gulet where we were anchored in front of
a lovely beach. The water was crystal clear and only 74 degrees.
We lowered the swim platform and ladder and swam for the first time
this year. Although there were restaurants ashore, Saundra opted
for one of my favorites, burgers. after another good night sleep
we raised anchor for Marmaris where we will make a few repairs and
send logs and pictures.
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