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SEA GEM LOG: Marmaris -May 25, 2001

 

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Marmaris is a comfortable place.The marina is secure, well maintained and the facilities of Gina Marina Technique areexcellent. Sea Gem has been in good hands for our repairs. Parts were ordered and received for the heads. A new VHF antenna has been installed and is working well. The single side band is now in service due to the expertise of Sami, an able and expert technician.

We have developed friendships here and last night were hosted by one of the managers to a lovely dinner in his home. Sinan his wife, Safak and their two sons, Deniz and Onur, made us very welcome as we shared a wonderful meal Safak had prepared. Onur, who is ten, and Deniz who is fifteen are both learning English. Deniz has already determined that he wants to attend college in the United States to study computer technology.

This morning I went to the weekly Friday market. This is a huge "fresh market" that also includes clothes, household items and "stuff." I arrived back at the boat with a whole cart load of fresh vegetables, fruit, and a couple of pairs of casual pants, one for myself and one for a gift. The pants were three million, less than three dollars a pair.

I have walked to the post office or internet each day and cut through the bazaar to stay in the shade. That part of town is frequented by both tourists and locals. The intricate alleys and shady passageways have endless shops and stalls. The merchants sit or squat in front of their establishments and call to you as you walk by. If they recognize you they let you know. Their determination of nationality is usually accurate; only occasionally are we mistaken for British or German. I have stopped wearing white walking shoes, which is a dead give away for being American, but even Tevas do not make a difference. We just do not "blend" here.

The smells of the old city are a potpourri, the intensity and mellifluous quality of which depends on the wind, the time of day, the temperature and if there is road and sewer work. Outdoor cooking with the inevitable meat rotating slowly on skewers and garlic and olive oil spluttering on huge pans release their essence. Refrigerated cases of various forms of meat and whole iced fish, ready to be cooked to your order, are positioned in plain view to whet your appetite. Inside the bazaar the streets are shaded by awnings and occasionally there is a terrace covered by a dense growth of tangled dark green vines. The shiny green grape, Virginia creeper and honeysuckle are accented by the vibrancy of bougainvillea. The marina area has the most spectacular display of purple bougainvillea we have seen.

This area has multiple charter services for crewed and bare boat charters. Also there are fleets of gulets that take day trippers to the outlying islands for sun and sand. The sunburn ratio is definitely coordinated with the number of Northern Europeans on limited holiday determined to go home relaxed and
tanned. From what I have seen I believe most go home blistered and tired. What a privilege we have, to have a generous amount of time to savor this wonderful area of the world.

Today, May 26, or tomorrow we plan to wind up our stay in Marmaris and push off on a leisurely journey westward. From Sea Gem in Turkey, until later. . . .