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 Since
we joined the East Mediterranean Yacht Rally in Kusadasi we have
visited marinas in:
Bodrum, Orhaniye, Gocek, Finike, Antalya, Kemer, Girne, (North Cyprus)
and Mersin. Each facility was modern, well maintained and each welcomed
us with grand hospitality. So far we have always Med-moored with
a mooring at the bowdrawn tight and the stern secured to the quay.
 Due
to the origins of the rally the officials consider the official
START to be in Kemer even though the rally has been moving forward
since Istanbul. People join in each port and now we have been divided
into groups with a group leader to make radiochecks, help disseminate
information and generally keep each of thefour  individual
divisions headed in the right direction.
Each marina has hosted
parties and dinners for us ranging from simple barbecues to elaborate
formal dinners, with concerts and even ballet.
There are seventeen nations
represented in theEMYR. Participants come from far  away
in distance-New Zealand,; as well as life experience--Russia. English
is the common language, even though many do not speak English. Many
people we talk to have gone to great lengths to learn English, many
have lived for a time in an English speaking country.
When we left Sea Gem in
Marmaris in August of 2000,
the Turkish lira was trading at about seven hundred to one. When
we returned in March the lira had been devalued to fourteen hundred
to one. The marina where we had the work done on the boat only quoted
prices in Deutch marks so they were immune from the terrible beating
taken by the Turkish currency. We have been amazed at the low prices
of most things here in Turkey.  Food
is a great bargain. I cannot get over paying less than a quarter
for a loaf of bread. The only high priced items are those specialty
items not produced in Turkey. Turkey raises food not only to feed
their own population but to export. The fresh fruits and vegetables
are excellent as well as the beef and lamb. There is no pork, remember
this is a Muslim country. 
The only open sea crossing
done in the rally was the passage from Kemer to North Cyprus. We
left in a calm sea with a benign weather report. By 02:30 the wind
whipped up to thirty knots, with gusts to thirty-five, (on the nose)
and we spent the remainder of the night beating into a growing sea.
Some of the boats had difficulty with the seas, and getting into
the small old harbor and anchoring and rafting was another of those
"tests" we face doing this kind of trip. The "old"
harbor has been in use since it was founded by the Myceneans about
1600 BC. (That's what is meant by "old.")
Our stay in North Cyprus
was interesting and informative, not only from the ancient historical
perspective, for nations have been fighting over this wealthy and
strategic island since the dawn of navigation. Trying to understand
the intricacies of modern politics is equally puzzling. What keeps
the Greek side isolated from the Turkish side while millions of
dollars of luxury hotels and buildings lie deserted and decaying
in a no man's land
of political limbo? What can possibly bring peace and understanding
without the trauma of uniting against a common enemy? Our visit
opens questions in our minds about so many things, better to sail
along and leave politics alone.
Our return from North Cyprus
was delayed due to the weather but when the seas settled we left
for the port city of Mersin on mainland Turkey. The overnight was
uneventful and we arrived to our most elaborate welcome thus far.
The  coast
guard met each boat directing us into the harbor where we each had
dock space waiting with uniformed coast guardsmen waiting to take
our lines. A band played on shore and all the coast guardsmen were
in white uniforms. We had a party that evening at a night club with
a full band and singers to entertain us. The following evening there
was a formal dinner at the Hilton Hotel, again with an orchestra
for entertainment and dancing. These eve nts
were fully sponsored and there was no charge to the rally participants.
We marvel at all the funds being expended by local governments and
businesses for this rally. It is certainly an outreach to the international
community to showcase Turkey. I wonder if Syria,
Lebanon, Israel and Egypt will have such plush red carpets?
We are leaving the rally
here in Mersin, or I should say, the rally is leaving us. We are
going to s tay
and take a trip inland to Adama and spend several days in Cappadocia
to see what we have been told is one of the highlights of this marvelous
country. Parting is always a bit sad but we will meet many of the
boats again in another anchorage, another marina
or another country. More friends and perhaps a little better understanding
of other lands and peoples. Until later from Sea Gem on Mother's
Day (May 13, 2001) from Mersin, Turkey. . . .
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